Would you mind if we did the hectic task of creating a list for you that would require you hours of research if you did it yourself?
Of course, you wouldn’t! So, if you are someone who is taking a new field archery course or someone who simply wishes to increase the count of venisons hunted with his old skills of compound archery, we have you covered with our comprehensive buying guide on how to choose a compound bow!
What You Should Consider
The following considerations on your bow will help you:
First, you need to find your ocular dominance, or as you may have guessed, your dominant eye. This is the eye you rely on more for the truth of information seen. It may be on the same side as the hand you write with or the opposite side. You should find a compound bow that can be shot in correspondence with your dominant eye side.
To find the eye, look through a hole and close each eye one by one to locate something. One eye will see things centered, while the other sees things shifted. The center-keeper is your dominant one.
This is the point where your hand rests when you fully draw the bow, and it is usually the corner of your mouth. With your compound bow, you will need to have a consistent anchor point that you are easy working with. Changing the anchor point may change your bow performance!
This is the length of how far you can pull the string on your bow. There will be a limit, after which the string of your compound bow can no longer be stretched. However, such bows come up extendable strings that can be adjusted to fit your comfort level.
To save yourself from the mishap of having too long or too short of the drawing str:
- Measure your draw length
- Stand up straight, forming a T, and tell your friend to measure your tips of middle fingers across both hand
- Divide this length by 2.5, and you should have the needed length. If you’re uncertain about it, you can always ask the archery store professionals.
Your draw weight could be coming from your shoulders or from your hands. This is the measure of how heavy you can pull back with your compound bow at a full draw. To kill a deer, a minimum draw weight of 40 pounds is enough.
If you’re new to archery, start with a low-weight. Once your bow-shooting muscles are easy and habituated, you can go for bigger weights. If you can, find a compound bow with the adjustable draw weight.
The weight of the bow itself also matters. Usually, lightweights bows are easy to deal with and carry around if you will find yourself in those situations while hunting in the forest.
You will also need to know the measure from one axle to the other on the bow because this is where the bows will draw their powers from. It is important to know to let you make compatibility between what type of compound bow you will need for your hunting type. Usually, longer axle lengths are good to work with when hunting in open courses as they are more forgiving.
First, you will need to pull the bow at your full and measure the maximum weight required to do it. You will then need to measure the amount of weight you are holding at the fully drawn bow position. The difference between these two measures will be your let off. The compound bows that are available on the market now have a let-off of 60-80%.
It actually depends on what measure of let-off you want to have for yourself. As you increase the let off, you will decrease your hold weight, and the longer you will be able to hold that weight.
When your bow is at rest, the difference between the bow grip and the string will give you the perpendicular brace height. You should try to look for longer brace heights as these are easier to deal with. But if you love fast-acting bows, you have to give up on longer base heights and accept shorter ones!
The speed of how fast you can throw your arrow will be determined by your draw weight, the weight of your arrows, the weather, etc. Usually, the longer and larger your draw and draw weight, the farther your arrows go. So, pay attention to the factors which will influence your arrow speed when buying compound bows.
When you fire your bow, friction, and the good old energy transformation we learned about in science classes act on and give you some noise. But most archers prefer a quieter bow than a louder one for obvious reasons. But if you find a likable bow that is not quiet, you can get vibration dampeners to create a low-sound impact.
The energy shift that happens throughout your draw and the entire draw weight tactics is manipulated by the heart of bow mechanics: the cams. Here’s 4 main types of them:
The solo cams are decent when it comes to reliability and smoothness of shot. These are also quiet and easy to maintain, making them good for beginner archers.
These are elliptical cams shaped without any symmetry whatsoever. But this can give you a straight and synchronized nock. These make some real fast shots on your compound bow.
The binary cams are the balancers of deflection and act as a self-corrector when you pass or make mistakes. Of the three discussed so far, these cams are the fastest.
Twin cams are best for young archers who need a lot of adjustments done to their bows due to being each so different from others. Although these are noisy, they give you a decent, efficient speed.
You learned, hopefully, a thing or two about how to choose a compound bow for yourself! There are quite a lot of brands there, including Diamond, Elite, Bear, Bowtech, etc. that can give you your fitting compound bow. While you may not need to sell a kidney for good bows, you will need to make sure yours delivers stellar accuracy and excellent quality!